mojito on the loveliest balcony

Back at home! You haven't heard a word from me for 3 months, but here I am again. I was tired and exhausted, not of baking, of course not.

The pastry course is over, the early wake-ups too. No more heat and sweat into the pastry kitchen. But you know what? I miss it. There are many new things I've learned about myself. Like, I do love to be in the kitchen! Way more than being in front of the PC, way more than writing. Not good news for the writer but extremely clarifying for the pastry maker and dreamer in me.

As for the course – it wasn't what I expected it to be. Nothing like the chocolate making course we attended two years ago – training and practice, learning new skills. This one was more like real work in real kitchen. Not very inspiring but a kind of experience.

Conifers and moss from the wood.

I learned that my temper isn't so bad as I've always thought it is and I do work well with other people. You know, I work at home, alone, so this was a great challenge for me – to work in a team – and I was ok with that.

All the furniture on the balcony is found on the street but it looks so good after Plami's renovations.

Also, working in a kitchen isn't so exhausting as I've thought it would be. I mean the physical part. Sitting ten minutes in a comfortable chair after work(= course) and I was on my feet fresh as a spring sprig, ready for a long walk and the best part – mojito on the balcony with Plami (Ivan's sister). Maybe I should have started with this.

These are forest strawberries and they had an enchanting aroma.

The balcony, I'm in love with it. It's so cosy and snug, and relaxing, and full of flowers but not crammed, and it's blue – what's not to be loved. If the bench was bigger I should have moved to sleep there at night.

Actually the bench is a refurbished baby bed.

Almost every night, together with Plami, we were sitting on that bench having a glass of mojito and sweet talks over a hearty jazz on the background. I was responsible for picking the finest mint sprigs from the big pot, then Plami was crushing them in the glasses along with some limes and sugar using the end of a rolling pin. Then it was time for the ice. We had an improvised technology for that one too – the ice used to be packed in a clean kitchen towel then smashed on a stone with a metal hammer. I have no idea why there was a stone but it was a very worthy thing when there is no ice crusher. Of course, at the end of my one month stay there were a couple of torn kitchen towers but we had a great fun. If you see the mint now when I'm no longer there to graze it – it's huge.

The big pot with mint, oregano, geranium, forget me nots and lobelia.

In two words, I had a wonderful stay in Sofia, although the pastry course wasn't very inspiring. But I got home with two great recipes from the course – one is for choux pastry for eclairs and the other one is for cheese cake. In the past we had some problems with the choux pastry so I'm happy I've broken the neck of this task. Stay tuned for future posts about it.

Basil sprouts.

There is no recipe today. I just wanted to say you hi, I'm back.

Chocolate-Avocado Entremet

The avocado-chocolate combination stuck to my mind ever since I saw it on Asha's blog Fork Spoon Knife. I love avocados, but since far I've never tried them in sweet variations. I'm glad I fixed that since this combo happened to be extremely good. Rich and fresh at the same time.

I had some doubts if the avocado mousse will keep it's nice colour long enough after assembling the entremets. This is why we did our best to eat them the same day we made them, and honestly, it would have been hard not to do so, since the taste was addictive. However we left one of the pieces as an experiment to see how long it would keep it's colour – 24 hours after the avocado mousse was made it's colour was still nicely green although not as fresh as in the beginning. We couldn't keep it any longer. It was crying to be eaten ;)

With the sponge layer we improvised with the ingredients we had on hand but we liked how the orange flavour and walnut taste and crunchiness combined with the chocolate-avocado duo. The recipe makes too much if it's to be cut into just 12 rounds, like we did, so we had a lot of leftovers, but we used them in another recipe.

Chocolate-Avocado Entremet Recipe:
Serves 6

For the Spongy Layer:

• 90 gr sugar(divided);
• 4 egg whites;
• 3 egg yolks;
• 40 gr millet flour;
• 30 gr rice flour;
• pinch of salt;
• 50 gr butter(melted and cooled);
• 35 gr walnuts(roughly chopped);
• 15 gr candied orange peels(finely chopped).

Note: For a non gluten free version substitute cake flour for millet and rice flours.

Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Line with buttered and floured paper a 28 cm round baking pan.

Sift together flours and salt, set aside. Beat egg yolks and half of the sugar until light and fluffy. Fold in butter, then flours, walnuts, orange peels. The mixture is quite stiff but don't worry, the egg whites will fix it.

Beat egg whites and the other half of the sugar to firm, glossy peaks. Fold a third of the egg whites into the above mixture to loosen it, then fold the rest of the whites. Transfer to the prepared baking pan and flatten the mixture to an even layer. Bake for around 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack.

For the Simple Syrup:

• 40 gr sugar;
• 40 gr water;
• orange zest.

Combine the ingredients and bring them to a simmer to dissolve the sugar. Stain through a fine sieve and discard the orange zest.

For the Dark Chocolate Mousse:

• 120 gr dark chocolate 75% cocoa (we used Cacao Barry's Tanzanie);
• 35 gr sugar;
• 10 gr powdered glucose;
• 40 ml water;
• 2 egg yolks;
• 280 ml heavy cream.

Make pate a bombe - beat the yolks until very pale in colour. On medium heat cook the sugar, glucose syrup and water to 118°C. Drizzle the syrup over the yolks beating all the time. Beat until cool. The batter should be thick and foamy.
Melt the chocolate in the microwave, watching out not to burn it. Then fold it into the pate a bombe.

Whip the cream until soft peaks. Fold 1/3 of the cream into the chocolate-yolks mixture. Then fold in the remaining cream. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip. Use as fast as you make the mousse since it sets really fast.

For the Avocado Mousse:

• 1 ripe avocado;
• 1 ½ Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice;
• pinch of salt;
• 20 – 30 gr sugar (according to your taste);
• 10 gr water;
• 80 ml heavy cream.

Heat sugar and water to dissolve the sugar, let it cool. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Puree the avocado, lemon juice, salt and sugar syrup. Gently fold in the whipped cream. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a star tip.

To Assemble:

Prepare 6 rings – 5,5cm in diameter and 6cm tall. Cut 6 cellophane strips - the height of the rings and 20cm long – use them to line the inner walls of the rings.

Using one of the rings, cut 12 spongy rounds. Place a spongy round at the bottom of each ring, brush it with simple syrup, then pipe a decent quantity of the chocolate mousse. Place another spongy round and repeat the procedure, piping chocolate mousse till the rim of the ring. If you wish you could flatten it with an offset spatula. Place in the fridge for at least an hour.

Remove the rings and peel off the cellophane strips. Pipe the avocado mousse. Refrigerate for half an hour before serving.

Mum's Kozunak Recipe

It took me ten days to gather my strength to write down this recipe. Firstly I thought not to post it since I find it difficult to write about something I haven't done all by myself. But I promised to my sister and a couple of friends I'll systematize mum's kozunak recipe to an easy to follow step by step guide.

Mum is famous for her kozunak amongst all her friends and all the neighbourhood. (Maybe I have to mention that Kozunak is the Bulgarian Easter bread.) A couple of days before Easter there are people calling, e-mailing and skyping just to remind her of their existence in order not to be forgotten in the kozunak give away. This is why when she makes kozunak, she usually makes 10 – 12 loaves (yep, no mistake here) and it takes her a whole day, not to mention the pile of dirty baking pans and the mess in the kitchen. Mum has a special equipment for kozunak making – the set consists of special bowls(large as basins) for mixing an proving the dough, linen towels for covering the bowls, pot for the sponge, special clothes and hair bands. The day when she makes kozunak nobody is allowed to enter the kitchen, in order to prevent hairs from flying here and there and wise advices to be given. The latter applies mainly for Ivan, who always tries to rationalize her recipe, and my father, who keeps saying for almost 30 years “My mother used to make it otherwise!”.

This year, I don't know how, but I managed to convince mum to make only half the recipe, so we ended up with just 5 loaves. Originally the recipe comes from my grandmother, but mum improves it every year and currently there are significant differences in mum's and grandma's kozunak making techniques. Grandma mixes the dough to firm stage and have some kind of ritual to “beat” it in the counter top to develop it's gluten, whereas mum mixes the dough to an extremely sticky stage and works it with her hands directly as it is in the basin in her own special manner.

Mum's Kozunak Recipe:
Makes 5 loaves

For the Filling:

• 70 gr sugar (A);
• 100 ml water;
• 400 gr ground walnuts;
• 230 gr sugar (B);
• 150 ml milk;
• 20 gr cocoa powder;
• 100 gr butter;
• 15 ml rum.

Caramelize sugar (A), then pour over the water and leave it on low heat until all the caramel is dissolved. Add sugar (B), ground walnuts, milk and bring to a simmer. Add in butter and cocoa powder. Mix well and bring to a simmer again. Turn off the heat. Cover with a lid and leave it to cool down. Stir in the rum.

For the Sponge:

• 1 cube (42 gr) fresh yeast;
• 100 ml whole milk;
• flour, enough to form a mixture with the consistency of cake batter;
• ½ tsp sugar.

For the Dough:

• sponge;
• 300 ml whole milk;
• 14 eggs(room temperature);
• 700 gr granulated sugar(divided 400 + 300);
• 150 gr butter(melted and cooled);
• 55 gr sour cream;
• 2 Tbsp vanilla extract(or 1 vanilla pod – scraped and mixed with the milk);
• 15 ml rum;
• zest of 4 lemons;
• 1 tsp salt;
• 3 kg all purpose flour - sifted (it won't be used the whole quantity);
• 100 ml vegetable oil(mum uses sunflower oil).

For Glazing:

• 2 egg yolks;
• 1 Tbsp apple vinegar. 

Note: The room temperature when making kozunak must be at least 22 - 23º C.
 

Make the sponge. Dissolve yeast in milk, add a teaspoon of sugar and flour enough to form a mixture with the consistency of cake batter. Sprinkle one tablespoon of flour on top. Cover with clean towel and leave it to triple in bulk.

the sponge after proving

In a small saucepan heat milk together with 400 gr of the sugar and vanilla just to dissolve the sugar. Leave to cool to lukewarm.

In another bowl beat eggs and the rest of the sugar (300 gr) just to incorporate the sugar.

In a large bowl combine sponge, milk-sugar mixture, egg-sugar mixture, melted butter, sour cream, rum, lemon zest, 1,5 kg of the flour and salt. Use hand mixer for mixing. The batter would be very sticky.

At this point mum continues to knead the dough by hand.

Add a little bit of the vegetable oil, then knead.

Add a handful of flour, knead again.

Repeat 5-6 times until all the vegetable oil has been used and around 500 gr of the flour. Then start kneading the dough with two hands for around 20 – 30 minutes.

Cover and leave the dough to become double in bulk. The dough is still very sticky, but this is how it's supposed to be.

Pour a part of the dough onto a heavy floured working surface and knead to form a soft dough.

Spread it with your hands(it would be still too soft to use a rolling pin), add some of the filling and fold the way you want.

Arrange into a buttered baking pan. Cover with a linen towel and leave it to become double in bulk. Bear in mind that dough triples in bulk during proving and baking. Repeat until all the dough is arranged into baking pans.

Till far we've used around 2,5 kg of the flour.

Whisk egg yolks with vinegar and glaze the loaves, sprinkle some sugar on top and bake into a preheated to 180º C oven.

 there was no way to take a photo of all the 5 loaves since we gave 2 of them away as soon as they were baked

We are sending this post to YeastSpotting.

Hot Cross Buns

We've never made so many Easter breads like this year. Firstly we made Kulich to take along with us in the countryside as a present for Ivan's parents, then I helped mum with the baking of 5 loaves of Kozunak. Plus I'm on a gluten free diet (I hope it will last for just a couple of months) and have tried nothing of the above, unless you count the wonderful aroma that was in the air. So we had a good reason to skip this month's Fresh from the Oven Challenge. But then some of the FFO members rebelled and posted early. Dom, Claire and Sally, you naughty guys! Ivan saw their posts and the next moment his hands were already buried into the slightly sweet dough for hot cross buns. Many thanks to Sarah from Simply Cooked for hosting this challenge.

As a base we used Sally's recipe but adapted it a little for the needs of a single eater who loves buns packed with a double doze of dry fruits. Ivan made the buns and it was up to me to make the cross and I slopped it ugly with a spoon. I made the cross dough too liquid and it spread more than intended but it still looks like a cross, so it's not a great problem. I left one of the buns without the white cross and even liked it more like that. (it could be seen into the background of the above photo)

Hot Cross Buns Recipe:
Adapted from My Custard Pie

• 270 gr all purpose flour (+ more for the working surface);
• 60 gr whole milk (lukewarm);
• 50 gr water (lukewarm);
• 7 gr fresh yeast (or 2,5 gr fast action dried yeast);
• 4 gr salt;
• 30 gr sugar;
• 1 egg;
• 30 gr butter (melted and cooled);
• 50 gr dry fruits (we used 100 gr – 20gr currants, 20gr sour cherries in rum; 30gr dry apricots, 30 gr candied orange and lemon peels);
• ½ tsp grated lemon zest;
• pinch of grated nutmeg;
• 2 pinches of cinnamon;
• ½ tsp ground cardamom;
• 2 pinches ground dry ginger;
• pinch of ground cloves.

For the Cross:

• 25 gr all purpose flour;
• ½ Tbsp sunflower oil;
• 1-2 Tbsp water(or enough to make the dough into piping consistency).

To finish:

• 1 egg yolk;
• 1 tablespoon milk.

To Glaze:

• 100 gr granulated sugar;
• 50 gr orange juice.

The dough could be kneaded by hand but since it's sticky it's easier to use hand or stand mixer equipped with dough hook.
In a large bowl sift together flour, sugar, salt, lemon zest and all the spices. Make a well in the center and set aside.
In another bowl combine water, milk and yeast and leave for 5 minutes. Then add melted butter. Whisk in the egg.
Pour the liquid ingredients into the well of the dry ingredients and mix with electric mixer(equipped with dough hook) to form a sticky dough. Add dry fruits. Knead on low speed for 10-15 minutes. Cover the dough and leave to rise for about an hour, or until doubled in size.
Transfer the dough to a floured counter top and divide it into 6 equal pieces. Shape into rounds and dust with flour. Place on a lined with paper baking pan and leave to prove, covered with a linen tea towel for about 30 minutes, or until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 200°C and make the paste for the crosses by beating the water and oil into the flour until smooth. Transfer the paste into a piping bag with a small nozzle.
Beat the egg and milk together.
Make a cross with a sharp knife across the top of the buns. Brush with the egg wash and then pipe crosses onto the indentation. (This could be done with a spoon but one has to be more skillful than I am). Bake for around 15 - 20 minutes.
Transfer to a wire rack. In a small sauce pan bring sugar and orange juice to a boil. Brush the glaze over the buns.

Kulich - Russian Easter Bread

Easter is this time of the year when everybody in Bulgaria makes (or rather buys) Kozunak. In our family my mother is the great “Kozunak Master” but I'll write more about this into the next post. The point is, we don't make Kozunak since we don't “mess” with the Master. However, this year we decided to make a Russian Easter bread – Kulich. To be honest I don't see a lot of difference in the various Easter breads, no matter where they come from. But they are rich and extremely tasty.

Normally when cooled Kulich is decorated with white icing, which is slightly drizzled down the sides, but since I hate this icing taste we skipped this step and instead we sprinkled some sugar on top.

Note: Since Kulich is a tall type of bread, it's better to place the rack on the lowest section of the oven. In order not to burn it's bottom, use a double bottom baking dish. (And beware not to forget it in the oven like we did.)

Kulich Recipe:
Makes one tall loaf (15 cm in diameter and around 15 cm tall)

• 250 ml whole milk;
• 1 Tbsp sugar;
• 1 Tbsp safflower;
• 2 Tbsp all purpose flour;
• 30 gr fresh yeast;

• 25 ml rum;
• 270 gr dry fruits (we used 20 gr currants, 50 gr sultanas, 50 gr dry apricots, 50 gr candied orange peels, 50 gr candied lemon peels, 50 gr sour cherries soaked in rum);

• 3 eggs(room temperature);
• 2 egg yolks(room temperature);
• 1 tsp vanilla extract;
• pinch of salt;
• 150 gr sugar;
• 150 gr butter (melted and cooled);
• 550 gr all purpose flour(sifted).

Soak dry fruits in rum for a couple of hours or better - overnight.

Bring milk, sugar(1 Tbsp) and safflower to a simmer (the milk will turn nicely yellow). Leave it to cool until lukewarm. Then mix in yeast and flour(2 Tbsp). Let it prove(bubble) for about 15 minutes.

In a large bowl beat eggs, yolks, sugar, salt and vanilla extract (use hand mixer or just a whisk). Mix in melted butter, then mix in the yeasty mixture. Equip the hand(or stand) mixer with dough hook/s and add flour. Mix for around 20 minutes. At the end add dry fruits and rum and mix well to incorporate them. The dough is sticky, so it's not possible to knead it by hand. Cover the bowl and leave the dough to become double in bulk. Meanwhile line a deep baking dish (we used a 15 cm oven-proof double bottom saucepan) with paper (or better panettone paper cups). Transfer the dough into the paper lined baking dish, cover it and leave it to prove again for around 40 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 200º C. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180º C and bake for 50 to 60 more minutes. Remove from the oven and leave it to cool for 20 minutes in the baking dish, then take it out of the baking dish and place on a wire rack. When cooled decorate with icing.

We are sending this to Susan for her YeastSpotting round-up.

Apple Coconut Cakes

I don't know what type these apples were but they were huge. We had 5-6 kilos of them and the problem was they were plane and tasteless if eaten raw but if cooked or baked all of their aromas evolve to a blissful perfection. After eating loads of apple tarts, crostatas, pies, it's time for something different. Grated apple makes these cakes moist and flavourful.

Note: These mini cakes are gluten free but if you wish you could substitute cake flour for rice and millet flour. 

Apple Coconut Cakes Recipe:
Makes 6 8,5-cm cakes

• 150 gr apple (grated);
• 15 gr freshly squeezed lemon juice; 

• 60 gr rice flour;
• 60 gr millet flour;
• 30 gr desiccated coconut;
• 8 gr baking powder;
• 5 gr gum arabica(optional);
• a pinch of salt;
• a pinch of ground cloves;
• 1 tsp ground cardamom;
• 60 gr butter(room temperature);
• 2 eggs (room temperature);
• 25 gr muscovado sugar;
• 65 gr granulated sugar;
• 15 gr rum; 

• 1 or 2 apples, peeled, cored and cut tino whatever pieces you like, then tossed in lemon juice.
• 1-2 Tbsp sugar to sprinkle over the apples.

Preheat oven to 180º C. Line a baking sheet with silpat. Butter and flour the inside side of 6 rings (8,5 cm in diameter) and place them on the silpat.

Toss grated apple in lemon juice. Set aside.

Sift together rice and millet flour, coconut, baking powder, gum arabica, salt, cloves, cardamom.

In a large bowl beat butter with the two types of sugar until light and fluffy. Add in eggs, one at a time. Beat in rum, then flour mixture and last – grated apple with lemon juice.

Divide the mixture between the prepared rings. Arrange apple pieces on top of the mixture and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Bake around 25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Tart Tatin

We made the tart from the photo more than a fortnight ago and I had no intentions to post about it since this is an extremely ordinary recipe. But we were overloaded with apples that if eaten raw were blind and crumbly but when cooked they were extremely flavourful. So this tart became something like our everyday tart.

Spices like cinnamon, cardamom, cloves could also be added but I prefer the potent simple apple taste. Sometimes we substitute muscovado sugar for a part of the granulated sugar but the colour of the apples gets a bit brownish.

This is not the traditional tart Tatin recipe since it's cooked only in the oven, but it appeared we do not have a pan that could be used both on the stove top and in the oven.

Tart Tatin Recipe:

• 150 gr cake flour;
• 20 gr desiccated coconut;
• 3 gr salt;
• 40 gr confectioners' sugar;
• 85 gr cold butter(cut into 1cm cubes);
• 1 small egg, lightly beaten;

• 100 gr granulated sugar;
• 45 gr butter;

• 2-3 apples;
• 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Combine flour, coconut, salt, confectioners' sugar in the bowl of the food processor and pulse to combine. Add cold butter and pulse several times to make it into fine crumbs. Add egg and pulse just to combine but do not overwork the dough into the food processor. Gather the dough, form it into a ball, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Peel and core the apples. Cut them in whatever pieces you like, then toss them in lemon juice.

Preheat the oven to 180ºC.

Caramelize sugar in butter, then pour it into an even layer on the bottom of 20-21 cm round baking pan. Arrange apples on top of the caramel.

On a lightly floured counter top roll the dough out to a circle 0,5-1 cm larger than the baking dish. Place the dough circle on top of the apples and tuck in the ends. Punch the dough a couple of times with a fork. Bake for around 45 - 50 minutes or until done.

Remove baking dish from the oven. Leave it slightly to cool for about 5 minutes, then turn it upside down on a serving plate. It could be served while still warm.